Sojourner #092: Among The Ruins: Reflections On A Quarter Century In Asia Minor

“Therefore, my beloved brothers, be steadfast, immovable, always abounding in the work of the Lord, knowing that in the Lord your labor is not in vain.” (1 Corinthians 15:58, ESV)

Orukaya, Roman Dam

The origins of Christianity are inseparable from the geography and cultures of the ancient Mediterranean world.

Dr. Mark R. Fairchild has spent more than two decades investigating the archaeological remains of ancient Anatolia, illuminating the historical context of the New Testament and the formative centuries of Christian theology.

What follows is his reflection on that work, born from sustained research and repeated return to the lands of early Christianity.

Among the Ruins: Reflections on a Quarter Century in Asia Minor

Few of you reading this article would be willing to offer your car to a stranger from another country. Few of you would invite a stranger to dinner at home with your family. Few of you would insist that a stranger stay the night with you in your home. And few of you would spend hours traveling with a stranger to a remote location to see ruins from the unknown past. 

I am a Christian and I travel to a country that is more than 99.8% Muslim. Yet, I have experienced the surprising and extraordinary hospitality of the Turkish people whenever I travel to the country. I am shocked that the trust, kindness, courtesies and respect not always expressed in my home country can be found in great quantities in a Muslim nation halfway around the world. This is not to denigrate America (there’s too much of that already) but we can learn from others.

Türkiye: The Cradle of Ancient Christianity

Olba, Rough Cilicia, Christian Monastery

My initial attraction to Türkiye (Turkey) was for biblical and archaeological work. The country was the cradle of Christianity and was the center of our faith from the latter decades of the first century until the Muslim conquests. Most of the New Testament was written in ancient Anatolia (today’s Türkiye) and many of our greatest theologians lived in Anatolia. All seven of the ecumenical councils were located in Anatolia. The country is relatively unexplored and contains an abundance of ancient ruins that have never been touched. I have visited more than five hundred of these sites throughout the land.

The western parts of Anatolia possessed fertile land watered by numerous streams and rivers. This area was colonized by the Greeks with scores of settlements located along the coast and inland a short distance. A Roman presence followed. The elevations rise in central Anatolia and the settlements are fewer in number. Eastern Türkiye averages a mile in elevation and the terrain is rugged. Greek and Roman cities are uncommon in the east but the remains of earlier civilizations are present in many ruins. 

Anatolia was the peninsula that connected the east with the west. With the Black Sea to the north, the Mediterranean Sea on the south, the Aegean Sea on the west and the rivers, Tigris and Euphrates, in the east, Anatolia became the land bridge connecting the civilizations of Central Asia to Europe. Tracks of the trade routes and caravanserays still dot the landscape. Many of those who traversed those roads settled in Anatolia, contributing to the diverse ancient civilizations represented in the land. Anatolia provides us with examples of how these civilizations clashed and compromised in time.

Why Archaeology Matters

Today, we are so far removed from life in the past that we fail to understand much of the New Testament. Research of the past begins with an examination of the material remains of the past. This is why I have invested a quarter of a century into studying Türkiye’s antiquities. The variety of settlements and the pristine setting of the surroundings stimulate a curiosity to know more of who lived there and their stories. 

Although there are dozens of examples, let me offer one of the recent discoveries in Türkiye. In 2014, aerial photography over Lake Iznik (ancient Ascania) revealed a large structure submerged around sixty yards offshore from the city of Iznik (ancient Nicaea). The head of the archaeology department at Uludaǧ University in Bursa, Mustafa Şahin, was given the task of investigating the structure. A short time later, Professor Şahin asked me to collaborate on the excavation. In 2022 I was selected for a Fulbright Senior Scholar Research Grant to work on the project. By 2024 the research was conclusive. The structure was the basilica church where the emperor Constantine called leaders from across the Mediterranean to debate issues, resulting in the famous Nicaean Creed. 

Lake Iznik, Iznik, Underwater Structure

This was a monumental point in Christian history. I published the discovery in a book, The Underwater Basilica of Nicaea: Archaeology at the Birthplace of Christian Theology (IVP Academic, 2024) along with two articles in the Biblical Archaeology Review. The site is now open for visitors with a beautiful visitor center and walkway leading out to the basilica. In November 2025, Pope Leo and the Orthodox Patriarch Bartholomew met at the site in a gesture to reenact and reunite the Christian world. 

Although my primary interest in coming to Türkiye was for research, my attraction to the country goes beyond research. I am gobsmacked by the breathtaking beauty of the countryside. Türkiye borders the Black Sea on the north and the shoreline is riveted with natural harbors, cliffs and beaches. Most of today’s shoreline communities lack the tacky touristic accoutrements. Deeper south are the mountains and deep forests where Mithridates VI hid from the Romans. Peter wrote to the early Christian communities in this area (1 Peter 1:1). 

Central Türkiye exhibits an other-worldly character. Phrygia and Cappadocia boast massive monoliths caused by volcanic debris. The early Christians, along with their predecessors cut into these rocks creating troglodyte dwellings and underground cities. Cappadocia features more than thirty of these subterranean cities. This area was the seed-bed of early Christian theology. But perhaps the southern coast of Türkiye is the most fascinating. The Taurus mountains run the length of Anatolia and closely border the Mediterranean Sea. The cliffs and crags offer memorable views. Paul entered Pamphylia from the south on his first journey with Barnabas and Mark (Acts 13). 

Rough Cilicia: The Crown Jewel of Türkiye

Yapilikaya, Rough Cilicia, Cliff Face Dwellings

From my perspective, the crown jewel of the country is southwest of Tarsus (Paul’s hometown) in the area known as Rough Cilicia. My current book, submitted to my publisher two weeks ago, details Paul’s ministry in this area during his first mission, a mission not mentioned in Acts and only briefly referenced in the letter to the Galatians. Paul spent nine years ministering in this area before joining Barnabas in Antioch. 

Galatians 1:11–24: Paul Called by God

“For I would have you know, brothers, that the gospel that was preached by me is not man’s gospel. For I did not receive it from any man, nor was I taught it, but I received it through a revelation of Jesus Christ. For you have heard of my former life in Judaism, how I persecuted the church of God violently and tried to destroy it. And I was advancing in Judaism beyond many of my own age among my people, so extremely zealous was I for the traditions of my fathers. But when he who had set me apart before I was born, and who called me by his grace, was pleased to reveal his Son to me, in order that I might preach him among the Gentiles, I did not immediately consult with anyone; nor did I go up to Jerusalem to those who were apostles before me, but I went away into Arabia, and returned again to Damascus.

Then after three years I went up to Jerusalem to visit Cephas and remained with him fifteen days. But I saw none of the other apostles except James the Lord’s brother. (In what I am writing to you, before God, I do not lie!) Then I went into the regions of Syria and Cilicia. And I was still unknown in person to the churches of Judea that are in Christ. They only were hearing it said, “He who used to persecute us is now preaching the faith he once tried to destroy.” And they glorified God because of me” (ESV, with emphasis).

What makes this area special is the labyrinth of canyons, gorges and ravines emanating from the Taurus range and cutting cliffs and precipices to the sea. The drops to the canyon floors often exceed eight hundred feet. Over sixty ancient settlements can be found in this area, many of them at the top of the cliffs and several more with dwellings cut into the cliff faces. The biblical relevance of this area, the unspoiled ruins, and the natural spectacle of this remote region top the charts in my mind. 

Returning to Türkiye

This year, I will return to Türkiye in April. I will spend a little over two weeks in Rough Cilicia and I will spend ten days in far eastern Türkiye, very close to the borders of Iran, Iraq and Syria. The ancient Urartu civilization existed there in eastern Anatolia more than seven hundred years before Christ. The Urartu were the progenitors of the Armenian people. Then, I will fly to Istanbul to lead a tour group to western Türkiye and Greece. I commonly lead tour groups when requested. I’ll finish with another flight to Antakya (Antioch), Tarsus and Cyprus.

Understanding Türkiye: Faith, Identity, and Diversity

Dr. Fairchild with a Yoruk family in the Taurus Mountains

To add to this, the Turkish people have won my heart. Part of it is due to the trust and hospitality that I’ve experienced among the people. But, part of the appeal is due to the struggles and stories of the people. Türkiye is not a wealthy country but the people are resilient and maintain a positive outlook for the future. Like citizens of most countries in the world, they do not always agree with political developments, yet they persist in spite of hardships. 

While the Turkish people are overwhelmingly Muslim, the population is diverse. The Islamic faith is deeply ingrained in the country and is closely coupled with nationalistic pride. Most of the Turkish people do not practice the faith. Most do not go to the mosque, read the Qur’an, pray five times a day or fast during Ramadan. Yet, Turks claim to be Muslims. To deny the Islamic faith is to deny one’s Turkish heritage.

Roughly fifteen percent of the people are Alevi Muslims, which most devout Muslims consider heterodox. Over the last fifty years, hundreds of Alevis have been massacred in central and eastern Türkiye. Today, Alevism is recognized by the state and is protected. Kurds are the largest minority in Türkiye consisting of almost twenty percent of the population. The Kurdish people have also had a turbulent past in the land, but recent political developments have opened new avenues for peace.

Street along the Golden Horn, Istanbul

Western Türkiye is the most prosperous region of the country and has the highest level of education. Western Türkiye is also the most secular area of the country. Much of it has the feel of a European country. As one moves further to the east, the land is less developed and the people are less educated and more conservative. By describing the eastern Turks as more conservative, this is not to say they are radicalized. Some of my most amazing demonstrations of hospitality have occurred in eastern Türkiye. 

The Current Refugee Crisis

Over the last fifteen years, Türkiye has seen a large influx of refugees. The civil war in Syria and the takeover of the Taliban in Afghanistan have caused mass migrations of people fleeing from violence. Türkiye cannot support the three and a half million refugees. Many have tried and died trying to cross the waters to Greece. Others live in squalor in Türkiye or have returned to their homeland. It is heartbreaking to see the casualties of war.

Several years ago, I was at a stop light in central Ankara when a Syrian family scurried across the front of my car. Their despair was written across all their faces. A husband and wife with their young children were visibly distressed, their eyes full of fear and utter hopelessness. A couple of minutes after they passed, my Turkish friend sitting in the passenger seat waited to see if I would say anything. Finally, he asked: “Did you see that?” I responded, “You don’t have to know Arabic to read the story in their eyes.” The image will forever be embedded in my memory.

Redeeming the Time

Hellenistic Reliefs, Adamkayalar, Rough Cilicia

The apostle tells us to “Redeem the time, for the days are evil” (Eph 5:16). The word for “redeem” (ἐξαγοραζόμενοι) is a term related to transactions at the agora. Literally, it means to buy time from the marketplace. The metaphor is impossible, but Paul is emphasizing the importance of making the most of the little time we are given. 

I am grateful for the opportunities I’ve been given. I grew up in a poor family in northwestern Pennsylvania and I saw how hard my parents worked to raise a family of seven. They could not afford to put me through college, but I worked, took loans and made it through. I committed my life to Christ after college and God has opened doors for me ever since. I never could have imagined the path that I would take to bring me to this place in life. But I am thankful beyond what I can express. Perhaps someday I will be honored to offer my car to a Turkish stranger.

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From the Editor’s Desk

The front lines of the greatest fight in the world are not always visible on a map. Sometimes they are found in excavation trenches, among scattered stones, along forgotten trade routes, and in conversations that bridge cultures and centuries.

Dr. Fairchild’s decades of work in Türkiye serve the Church in a quiet but vital way. Archaeology does not justify our faith, but it does illuminate the world in which our faith was made sight. It reminds us that the gospel was proclaimed in real cities, debated in real councils, and carried by real people across rugged terrain.

In an age untethered from history, such work matters.

As Dr. Fairchild prepares for another season of research in Rough Cilicia and eastern Türkiye, we invite our readers to pray, by faith in Christ alone, for his safety, clarity, and continued opportunities to strengthen the Church through careful scholarship and faithful presence.

Even the rocks themselves cry out, now and forevermore. 

— Editor-in-Chief, Sojourner Magazine

About the Author

Istikal Caddesi, Istanbul

Dr. Mark R. Fairchild is Professor of Bible & Religion at Huntington University (retired) and a Fulbright Senior Research Scholar.

For more than twenty-six years, he has spent extended seasons each year conducting archaeological research across Türkiye (ancient Anatolia), focusing on the historical and material world of early Christianity and the apostle Paul.

He is the author of The Underwater Basilica of Nicaea: Archaeology at the Birthplace of Christian Theology (IVP Academic, 2024), along with numerous other scholarly articles, publications, and books. His forthcoming volume explores Paul’s nine-year ministry in Rough Cilicia, a largely unrecorded chapter in the apostle’s life and ministry.

Dr. Fairchild regularly leads study tours throughout Türkiye and Greece and continues active field research in partnership with Turkish archaeologists.

For more information about Dr. Fairchild and places seldom seen, please visit his website, Ancient Biblical World.

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